Jonty's MR2 Turbo

Looking after your '2

Most owners place their trust in a dealership or local mechanic to service and maintain their pride and joy.  Although not a bad thing, it's not for everyone and a lot of MR2 owners prefer to care for their own cars, or at least as best they can.  In addition to this, all motorists should ideally understand the basics (although it's not always the case).

Service and general maintenance tasks can range from weekly checks to the less regular oil changes and right up to the more complex operations like changing a clutch.  Not intended as the 'be all and end all' of car maintenance, the sections below should give you some good pointers if you have little or no experience in this field.

Before you commence any work on your car however, take a moment to think if it will be a dirty job.  Sometimes the quickest and easiest jobs will leave you with dirty hands and grime that's stubborn to shift.  I've gotten into the habit of wearing disposable latex gloves (typically on sale at your local chemist) and/or using Comma's Manista hand cleanser (a heavy duty cleaner which removes all traces of grime and leaves your hands soft and nicely fragranced).

A number of components should be checked once a week and it's recommended that you get into the habit of doing so -- they'll help to keep your car roadworthy and you safe (as well as possibly saving you a lot of money in repairs).  I go into detail on some areas below, but in essence check and maintain: engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, tyre pressures and tread depth, windscreen wipers and washer fluid, lights and bulbs, and the battery.  Other checks can be made but these are the essentials.

Engine oil

Oil is the lifeblood of any engine -- ignore its importance and you do so at your peril.  In theory the oil level of an engine should be checked prior to every journey but in today's society this isn't very practical.  However, make it your priority to check the oil once a week at the very least and top-up as necessary.

"Which oil should I use..?" is an automotive chestnut.  The type and grade of oil to use should be based on the manufacturer's recommendation, e.g. semi-synthetic in 10W-30 form, however, engines subjected to climatic and performance changes from standard may negate such a recommendation in favour of a different type of oil and grade.  Other factors that will also play a part are age and mileage of the engine, driving style, past experience, and the price of oil (although it's wise to remember that oil and filters are considerably cheap, engines and repairs are expensive!)

I've used Castrol's GTX Magnatec (10W-40 semi-synthetic) in the past but found, like other owners, that the engine simply drank too much of it.  Highly recommended, I now use Mobil 1 15W-50 Motorsport.  Granted, it's not a cheap oil but being fully-synthetic it can cope with the extremities of heat better than mineral or semi-synthetic oils, has built-in detergents, and has the right viscosity when hot and cold to look after my aging, 60,000+ mile engine (as of March 2003).

The use of a Toyota oil filter is strongly recommended too -- it incorporates a retaining valve to prevent oil from draining completely out of the engine and back into the sump, so when it's started up next, the engine has oil present straight away.  They don't cost much more than aftermarket filters and need to be accompanied with a new sump plug washer of course.

It's debatable how often oil should be changed but as a starting point the manufacturer's recommendation should not be ignored.  It's not uncommon though for people to reduce the frequency of change based on their own preferences.  I used to change the oil in my MR2 every 6,000 miles but since breaching 60,000 miles I've reduced this to every 3,000.  This takes into account not only the age of the engine but the load I'm placing on it and how dirty oil can get in a short space of time.  Spy the oil pictured below which is jet black after just 3,000 miles.

When performing an oil change you might want to consider the use of flushing agents too.  Such agents will help to remove sludge and other dirt deposits that build up in the engine, which if left to remain could cause potential problems like oil starvation if a blockage occurs.  Comma offer 2 such agents -- one an additive, the other a dedicated engine flush.  I use them in conjunction with each other and both require the engine to be run at fast idle for approximately 10 minutes.  The results can be quite impressive -- the pictures below show the results of using a dedicated agent after an additive type was used (and the oil drained).  The dedicated agent was originally clear -- not quite the case after it's flushed through a drained engine!

NOTE: Although there is an obvious benefit when flushing, small defects could also be exposed if sludge that was previously plugging a crack is removed.  Nature of the beast I'm afraid.

Coolant

It's the coolant in your system that prevents your engine from overheating, which should it occur can leave an engine severely damaged in extreme cases.  Checking the level should be carried out every week and is easily done -- simply remove the pressure cap and top-up (although if a problem exists causing frequent and sizeable coolant loss then the problem should be addressed).

When choosing the type of coolant to use it's important to remember that basic alcohol type antifreeze is not to be used in an MR2, nor is plain tap water.  Failure to use ethylene-glycol type antifreeze will lead to corrosion and expensive repairs.

Toyota's Forlife coolant is a pre-mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze and comes in either green or red in colour, where I find the red variety easier to spy sloshing around in the coolant tank.  It is possible to use other ethylene-glycol based mixtures but it's important to ensure that the correct quantities are used, so it's easier to just purchase it from your local Toyota dealership.  Sold in 5 litre cans, one of these should last a long time for weekly top-ups and 10 litres should be sufficient for a complete coolant change.

NOTE: Never remove the pressure cap when the engine is hot unless you want a face full of red-hot coolant.

Brake fluid

We take our brakes for granted really and very rarely check they're in perfect working order before setting off on a journey.  Without fail, check the brake fluid level at least once a week -- you'll find the reservoir in the front compartment.

If you haven't checked for a long, long time, don't be alarmed if the level has dropped below the maximum mark -- as brake pads wear the level drops.  Likewise, if new brake pads are fitted then it may be necessary to drain some of the brake fluid off.

Brake fluid comes in a range of different types, i.e. DOT3, 4, 5, and 5.1 and while it's okay to mix different makes you must never mix different types.  If in doubt, drain the system and refill with new fluid.  Use more than you need so that you can flush the old fluid out.

Given the importance of brakes, if you're not competent enough to work on them don't risk it and seek the assistance of a qualified mechanic or brake specialist.

Tyre pressure

The pressure inside all 4 tyres is something which should be checked before each journey, where possible.  Unless you have reason not to (e.g. aftermarket wheels and tyres of a different size), pressurise the tyres using the manufacturer's recommendations.  If running with non-standard wheels, suspension components, or your driving style requires it, adjust the pressures accordingly and strive to make sure that even wear occurs across each tyre but not at the sacrifice of handling or safety.

To accurately gauge pressure, pump up tyres when they are cold and use a foot pump.  Petrol station air hoses are okay too but only if quite modern.  By monitoring tread depths (see below), it's possible to calculate the best pressure to use front and rear.  Running with over- and under-inflated tyres will cause adverse tyre wear and poor fuel economy with the latter.

With 16 inch wheels and 205/45/16 and 225/45/16 tyres, surprisingly 35 psi all-round not only gives me superb handling and grip but also near-perfect tyre wear.  This came after months of trial and error.

Tyre tread depth

Currently the UK legal minimum tread depth for car tyres is 1.6mm.  This is of course based on law and not common sense.  Well before tyres reach 1.6mm of remaining tread their ability to disperse water has been impaired.  Given the MR2 is a real drivers car, has RWD, and can be pushed to its limits with little effort, consider changing tyres at around 2.0mm of remaining tread.

As a recommendation, check tyres every two weeks using a tread depth gauge and preferably keep a record so you can assess the wear as the months go on.  Record details for the middle, inside, and outside sections of the tread.  Check that tyres wear evenly, although the MR2 is known to 'eat' tyres so this is easier said than done (designed for optimum handling, the MR2 has been set-up as a driver's car at the expense of sensible tyre wear).

Excess wear in the middle of the tyre would suggest over-inflation.  Excess wear on the inside and outside of the tyre would therefore suggest under-inflation.  Excess wear on only the inside or outside would indicate an alignment problem or damaged running gear.

Finally, when looking over your tyres, it also pays to keep a look-out for any cracks or other problems, and any imbedded objects like stones and nails.  Stones should be removed by prising them out, however nails will mean a trip to your local tyre centre to have it removed and the tyre vulcanised (where possible).

Windscreen wipers

As a suggestion consider replacing wiper blades every 12 months to maintain optimum driving safety (or sooner if necessary).  To check for worn blades, run your thumb down a blade and if you can feel it's worn (splitting or pitted) then it's time to change the rubber.  Additional signs of wear can also include uneven clearing of water when the wipers are in motion, and unusual noise or chattering as the blades struggle to glide over the glass smoothly.

Before replacing wiper blades though, it's wise to make sure that both the windscreen and wipers are clean.  Quite often healthy blades may struggle to clean glass properly if the windscreen is dirty (wax, tree sap, and other dirt) or the blades are covered in the same.  Every now and then, run some windscreen washer fluid or vinegar down the length of each blade using a cloth.

When the time comes that you have to purchase replacement blades, Toyota stock replacement elements but so do Halfords -- for less cost and with more variety.  Armed with the details of the length of blade(s) required, you have the choice of purchasing complete blade units or just the rubber inserts.

My choice of wipers are from Bosch's Super Plus range and come with incorporated spoilers to keep the wipers on the windscreen when being used at high speeds.  With an integral tensioning strip and dual rubber construction, I find the clearing capability of the blades to be excellent.

Screen wash

Ever forgotten to regularly check your washer fluid level to find you run out when you needed it..?  Did you also know that a vehicle is un-roadworthy without adequate screen washing capability and would therefore be classified as dangerous and fail an MOT..?

At least once a week, top-up your washer fluid reservoir with clean water and your preferred additive using a ratio as per the manufacturer's recommendation (or however you prefer).

Maintaining the screen wash level isn't a science but choosing a good additive can be.  I've typically found that you get what you pay for, i.e. when I've purchased a cheap and basic solution I've found the mixture to be greasy on the windscreen and not great at removing dirt and bugs.  Choosing more expensive products, I've found the mixtures to be fine.

I've often used Decosol's Dual Action Screen Wash or De-icer, simply because it's very effective at clearing grime, leaves no greasy film or residue, and can also be used as a de-icer (with a convenient squirting cap).  With a new line of scented screen washes, I'm currently experimenting with Halfords' Double Concentrate in Lemon Fresh form.  Previously unimpressed with Halfords' screen washes, their latest range seems to work fine with the added bonus of a lovely fragrance entering the car when the jets are used.

Lights and bulbs

The number of vehicles on UK roads being driven with defective lights is astonishing, and all down to laziness on the part of the motorist.  It only takes 5 minutes to check that all your car's lamps are working, and made even easier if you can park up next to something, e.g. a wall, garage door, or a shop front.

Ensure all your lamps are tested, front, side, and rear: indicators, side-lights, dipped lights, main beam, reverse, stop, and fog.  Bulbs are very cheap to replace when compared to a traffic offence fine and don't take long to install.  Being 'lit' also allows other motorists and pedestrians to gauge what you're doing and makes the roads that little bit safer.

Battery

The battery in your car is a simple, yet integral part of your vehicle -- it stores and provides electrical energy so that it can turn your starter motor (allowing you to start your engine) and powers other devices like alarms, lights, clocks, and radios.  Most modern batteries are maintenance-free but some are not and require periodic checking and topping-up with distilled water.  If your battery isn't maintenance-free then consider checking it once a week -- it only takes 10 minutes and may prevent you from being stranded at the road-side waiting for assistance.

I'm currently using a Halfords' brand battery which incorporates calcium technology compared to a standard one.  It has 30% more starting power (ideal for those cold mornings), a higher resistance to overcharge, and higher resistance to under-bonnet temperatures (although irrelevant in an MR2!)

ECU, error codes, and reset

The MR2 has its own brain -- the ECU, which is a very complex and clever computer used to keep track of everything.  It's so clever that it can record and report error conditions and adjust fuelling and turbocharger boost limits.  A performance improvement can be had by resetting the ECU, but more about that in a while.

Cars with ECUs are all designed to be plugged into its manufacturer's diagnostics equipment, effectively advising a garage if any problems exist which need attention.  Thankfully the MR2's ECU can be interrogated using a paperclip which helps avoid costly labour charges.  Armed with some technical references (workshop manuals or web-links), a series of 'Engine Check' light flashes can either indicate problem areas or that all is well.

The diagnostics port in an MR2 lives in the engine bay, protected by a flip-cap.  With the ignition off, bridge the E1 and TE1 connections using a paperclip and then turn the ignition on.  Steady and constant flashing of the Engine Check light (on the dashboard) means all is okay.  Any patterns of flashing will need to be cross-referenced.

Now for the performance gain to be had, but don't lose sight of what I've just mentioned -- I'll be coming back to this in a moment.  A core function of the ECU is to keep an eye on fuelling and in addition to the standard map (set by Toyota) the ECU learns and adapts depending on factors like fuel quality, knocking, climatic factors, and driving style.  Over a period of time the ECU may develop a conservative fuelling map which robs the car of performance (or if there's a problem).  Although the ECU continually adapts, it's very slow at doing so and can be reset to speed up the process.

Preferably after a drive (car at full operating temperature), park, remove the key, and pull the engine lid release.  In the engine bay is a fuse box.  Remove the 7.5A ECU-B and 15A EFI fuses.  In the front compartment (not the cabin) remove the 7.5A ECU-B fuse... and then wait for at least two minutes before replacing them all.  With the fuses re-seated you can start the car and go for a drive and already warmed up you can drive the car hard if you wish (showing the ECU exactly how it should be fuelling!)

Don't be alarmed if the car is sluggish at first -- the ECU has been reset and is having to learn from scratch.  If it's reset when the car is cold, the lack of performance and hesitation will be more noticeable, but will pass after a good 10-15 minute journey where the throttle can be exercised.

NOTE: Resetting the ECU not only removes the existing fuelling map but also any error codes which were stored.  This is handy for any one-off events which may have placed the ECU in 'safe mode' but should a problem still be evident then the ECU may instantly revert back to its conservative settings.  If this is the case then any issues should be addressed accordingly.

Spark plugs

If your spark plugs are designed to last 60,000 miles then they probably cost enough that you'll want them to!  For cheaper plugs, e.g. Champion Double-Copper or EON, I'd recommend these are replaced every 6,000 miles or 10,000 at the most.

When inspected, the colour of the ends can say a lot about what's going on.  A tan coloured plug means all is well, although with the MR2 Turbo designed to run rich you may well find them more black.  A dry black end means a rich fuel mixture which could be expected but perhaps also excessive.  If the end is black but wet and glazed then this would indicate the presence of oil (more than likely leaking past the piston rings or valve guides).  If you have this then you should also be seeing a blue plume from the exhaust at times.

A white coloured plug normally indicates overheating and should be addressed as soon as possible (it could also mean wrong plug type, poor fuel, and incorrect timing).  Any damage observed should be cause for concern and investigated before driving the car again.

Dizzy cap

The distributor, or dizzy cap, always warrants a look inside to check for the amount of corrosion on the standard aluminium contacts and if any are fouled then they should be cleaned with a sharp knife.  If the cap is very old then consider replacing with a new one.  With copper contact caps, take a look but there should be no need to scrape away build-up that often.

Air filter

This will vary depending on the type of filter currently in use.  The standard air-box accepts a flat panel filter whether Toyota or aftermarket part.  Ideally this filter should be replaced (or cleaned) every 6,000 miles.  Standard filters are not designed to be cleaned but some aftermarket ones are.

Cone filters, or induction filters, serve to let more air into the system but still need to prevent dirt from doing so.  Again, these require maintenance every so often and typically consists of tapping loose dirt from the filter, spraying and washing with a cleaner, and the application of a dirt retention fluid or oil if required.

If the air filter you have is not designed to be cleaned then don't try.  Quite possibly the filter's ability has degraded and a new filter should be purchased.

Air conditioning

A common misunderstanding is that air conditioning (air-con) systems are only for use during the summer, to keep us cool.  Cars fitted with climate control systems can allow air-con to be used all year round (blowing dehumidified warm air on cold days) which is great at avoiding a stuffy cabin and misted glass.  The gas in an air-con system also contains a small amount of oil for lubrication purposes.  Even if the air-con isn't used all year round, for at least 10 minutes every month the system should be turned on to keep components lubricated.

When in use, sometimes air-con can generate a funny smell.  This is quite common (even in modern cars) and is due to the presence of bacteria.  Due to the nature of air-con systems, as the core is always damp bacteria can grow in the evaporator casing thus generating a whiffy presence when in use.  Products are available though which will deodorise and disinfect.

Wynn's Airco Fresh comes as an aerosol and is designed to be spent in a single application.  Requiring the glove box to be removed prior to use, the tin's contents are sprayed directly into the cabin's air intake.  With the controls set correctly, the solution gets to the evaporator unit and helps to kill the bacteria there (as well as cleaning and freshening other parts of the system).

Fuel system

Over time deposits can build up in the fuel system and combustion chamber robbing the car of performance.  Similar to an oil flush additive, products are available on the market which also attempt to clean the fuel system.

STP manufacture a Complete Fuel System Cleaner product which is designed to be used every 4,000 miles (and no less).  Added to a full tank of petrol, it's designed to help clean fuel injectors, carburettors, intake valves, combustion chambers, valve guides and ports, cylinder heads, and piston tops.  The benefits of doing this are improved engine starts, prevents knocking and pinking, reduces hesitation and nasty exhaust emissions, and more importantly... can restore lost horsepower.

Confident with the following assumption, I wouldn't expect neck-breaking results after just one application.  Used every 4,000 miles though it should help to maintain a clean and healthy fuel system.

Rubber rejuvenator

As the years go on, rubber seals begin to look tired and sometimes don't perform the task they're designed to.  Halfords' Rubber and Nylon Lubricant is a messy but effective product which puts life back into your rubber.

With the small length of pipe (supplied), to apply you just spray over rubber seals and leave for a while to penetrate.  Then, wipe away the excess.  Applied every 12 months, this will help to keep your seals more supple and efficient.

NOTE: It's wise to address your seals before cleaning the car as the lubricant can be extremely messy, leaving oil traces all over your paintwork and other surrounding areas -- which aren't easily removed without shampoo and water.

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